If you look closely at the sketch in the first photo, you can see my original design had sloping side panels- it’s interesting to watch as a design evolves almost finding its own way to completion.
Below is a good side shot of the chest on my workbench- notice the placement and alternating sizes of the dowels through the side panels? The smaller dowels in walnut and the large ones are cherry. Another small detail that draws some interest to even this, the most utilitarian form. In the background is Sally our beagle, always close by waiting patiently- pretending that she didn’t know I was taking a picture!
When you begin planning your own tool chest I encourage you to first decide what your ‘essential’ hand tools are and then dimension the chest around them. The dimensions I used hold my own personal kit but what you may want or need on the road is no doubt very different than what I carry with me. For a design to be successful is must first be practical so make sure everything is going to fit.
In this final photograph, taken early in the summer of 2009, I was packing up my ‘essentials’, getting ready for the trip to Cape Breton Island. You’ll be surprised at how much this small chest can hold! These are the contents:
From back to front:
- Vintage Stanley No. 5 Jack plane
- Lie Nielsen Side Rabbet planes
- Lie Nielsen No. 4 Smoothing plane
- Lie Nielsen 102 -low angle block plane
- Lie Nielsen 1/2 -Inch Shoulder plane
- Veritas small Router plane
- 1 1/2″ Japanese Bench Chisel
- 1/2″ Japanese Dovetail Chisel
- 3/8″ Mortise Chisel
- 1/2″ Mortise Chisel
- Veritas Detail Chisels ( 1/8″, 1/4″, 1/2″)
- 6″ Steel Rule
- 4″ Combination Square
- 3″ Engineers Square
- Winding Sticks
- Fret Saw
- Dividers
- Dovetail Marker
- Small Hand Drill and Bits
- Journeyman’s Brass Mallet
- Bench Brush
- Folding Rule
- Awl
- Marking Knife
- Screwdriver for plane irons
- Tite Mark Marking Gauge
- 6″ Level
- Veritas Surface Clamp
- Lie Nielsen Carcass and Dovetail Saws
- 2 Wooden Cam Clamps
Feedback
Good luck with them and happy shavings!
Hi everyone,
Just a quick note to let you know that the ‘Roto Hinges’ used in this project for the sliding lid were purchased at Lee Valley Tools in Canada. They’re also available at Rockler Woodworking and Hardware in the US.
I forgot to mention where I purchased them in the book and my error was recently pointed out- (thanks Alf!)
Am wondering what software was used to create the drawings in the pdfs on your project pages – I use sketch up but prefer the 2d drawings shown in the PDFs.
love to help David but I’m not sure what program it was – I didn’t make them.
Glad you like them and thanks for the comments.
Hi Tom,
I’m still enjoying the book and the DVD.
I have a question about the wood cam clamps. I’ve never seen this type of clamp before. Can you please mention a little something about them?
Cheers,
bE
Dear Tom,
I just finished my version of your toolbox! Started on the cabinet today.
Although I did all the planing and joinery by hand, I did end up using a power sander for the finish. I just couldn’t take any more sanding. Any tips on using a plane to end up with a finished surface?
Also, I don’t have a block plane, so I have real trouble squaring up the end grain of a board. I’m saving up my pennies, but any tips in the meantime?
Greg, thanks for the comment. I’d love to see some pics of the tool box, maybe you could send me some and I’ll post them? For planing a finished surface its all about a sharp smoothing plane and taking light passes. Like everything in life there may be a learning curve but practice and you’ll get there soon enough. As for squaring stock without a block plane- use your bench plane and a shooting board, that works for me- cheers!
Thanks for the tip! I ginned up a shooting board and it worked like a charm. Who knew?! I’ll email a few shots to you now.