Comments on: Shellac Attack http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/shellac-attack.html Fri, 03 Feb 2012 01:50:30 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 By: tom http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/shellac-attack.html#comment-5934 tom Sun, 22 Jan 2012 23:47:02 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/?p=2079#comment-5934 Hey Lucy, thanks for the question. While I've never used a top coat over shellac maybe a reader will chime in with some info. Cheers! Hey Lucy, thanks for the question. While I’ve never used a top coat over shellac maybe a reader will chime in with some info.
Cheers!

]]> By: Lucy http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/shellac-attack.html#comment-5933 Lucy Sun, 22 Jan 2012 22:46:49 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/?p=2079#comment-5933 I'm using Zinsser amber shellac to seal a metal leafing project, because I like the color. On top of this goes another tinted water-based glaze. I would like to use an acrylic varnish as a final top coat. I'm wondering about the compatibility. Anyone have experience using acrylic on top of shellac? I’m using Zinsser amber shellac to seal a metal leafing project, because I like the color.
On top of this goes another tinted water-based glaze. I would like to use an acrylic varnish as a final top coat. I’m wondering about the compatibility. Anyone have experience using acrylic on top of shellac?

]]> By: Gigi http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/shellac-attack.html#comment-499 Gigi Wed, 10 Aug 2011 14:48:11 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/?p=2079#comment-499 I found this extremely helpful, thank you! I am very interested in using shellac on a regular basis once I have a studio space. If you wouldn't mind divulging, what was the name of the chemical supply house you got your denatured alcohol, and how much did it cost? I found this extremely helpful, thank you! I am very interested in using shellac on a regular basis once I have a studio space. If you wouldn’t mind divulging, what was the name of the chemical supply house you got your denatured alcohol, and how much did it cost?

]]> By: Luis http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/shellac-attack.html#comment-498 Luis Tue, 09 Mar 2010 12:08:31 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/?p=2079#comment-498 Hey Klaus, If you don't rub the shellac with some steel wool or a synthetic pad it will have a plastic feel. By this I mean that when you slide your hand over the surface it will drag. By rubbing the shellac and then applying some wax it will then feel silky smooth to your hand. If you don't want to apply shellac you can buff the dull surface with a polishing compound. I've never tried this but I've read about it in Jeff Jewitt's book "Great Wood Finishes" which I highly recommend. This way you can bring the sheen to the desired level, either a satin look or a glossy finish. See my comment in the next post for more details of my process. Donna, You are absolutely right, shellac is compatible with all finishes but only the de-waxed flavors. Waxed shellac won't be compatible with some. You can see if your shellac is waxed or de-waxed by looking at it in a glass container. A de-waxed shellac will look translucid like tea while a waxed shellac will look like you added milk to your morning tea. After some time the wax will drop to the bottom of the container and you will see a residue at the bottom. Give it a shake and you're ready to go. Take care, Luis Hey Klaus,

If you don’t rub the shellac with some steel wool or a synthetic pad it will have a plastic feel. By this I mean that when you slide your hand over the surface it will drag. By rubbing the shellac and then applying some wax it will then feel silky smooth to your hand.

If you don’t want to apply shellac you can buff the dull surface with a polishing compound. I’ve never tried this but I’ve read about it in Jeff Jewitt’s book “Great Wood Finishes” which I highly recommend.

This way you can bring the sheen to the desired level, either a satin look or a glossy finish. See my comment in the next post for more details of my process.

Donna,

You are absolutely right, shellac is compatible with all finishes but only the de-waxed flavors. Waxed shellac won’t be compatible with some.

You can see if your shellac is waxed or de-waxed by looking at it in a glass container. A de-waxed shellac will look translucid like tea while a waxed shellac will look like you added milk to your morning tea.

After some time the wax will drop to the bottom of the container and you will see a residue at the bottom. Give it a shake and you’re ready to go.

Take care,
Luis

]]> By: Donna http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/shellac-attack.html#comment-497 Donna Wed, 03 Mar 2010 01:09:03 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/?p=2079#comment-497 Zinsser Seal Coat is a dewaxed shellac, but I'm not certain that the Zinsser Amber shellac is dewaxed. The waxed shellac may not be compatible with all finishes! Zinsser Seal Coat is a dewaxed shellac, but I’m not certain that the Zinsser Amber shellac is dewaxed. The waxed shellac may not be compatible with all finishes!

]]> By: Klaus http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/shellac-attack.html#comment-496 Klaus Tue, 02 Mar 2010 19:57:04 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/?p=2079#comment-496 I too am thankful for all these great comments and information, as I have zero personal experience with shellac. But I most appreciate Luis' description of the thin application. I have always had the (apparent) misconception that shellac results in a thick plastic-like fake coating which would be a turn-off for me. I have read much praise over shellac in the past and am glad to hear all these benefits can be obtained without the ugly result I've always pictured in my mind. Thanks I too am thankful for all these great comments and information, as I have zero personal experience with shellac. But I most appreciate Luis’ description of the thin application. I have always had the (apparent) misconception that shellac results in a thick plastic-like fake coating which would be a turn-off for me. I have read much praise over shellac in the past and am glad to hear all these benefits can be obtained without the ugly result I’ve always pictured in my mind.
Thanks

]]> By: Tom Fidgen http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/shellac-attack.html#comment-495 Tom Fidgen Tue, 02 Mar 2010 16:20:46 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/?p=2079#comment-495 Luis and Jordan- thanks guys! these are fantastic tips...I think we have a lot of great information gathered here on the topic- my thanks for everyone sharing some thoughts. Cheers! Luis and Jordan-
thanks guys!
these are fantastic tips…I think we have a lot of great information gathered here on the topic-
my thanks for everyone sharing some thoughts.
Cheers!

]]> By: Jordan http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/shellac-attack.html#comment-494 Jordan Tue, 02 Mar 2010 15:53:13 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/?p=2079#comment-494 For those who want a quick and easy shellac finish; simply buy a quart of Zinsser Amber Shellac at the hardware store and thin with denatured alcahol 1/1. Like most finishes apply thin coats. I'm like Luis and use a rag for large surfaces and a brush for tite areas but only use the brush to apply the shellac and the cloth to wipe access. This method works well because one can control the color. Just add more coats to get a darker tone. As for a finish you can apply "all in the same day"- Generals High Performance Top Coat. Brush thin and leave alone. Drys for next coat in 15 minutes and I'm yet to have brush strokes. I just finsihed a large project using this method and applied the top coat for durability. Doesnt get any easier and looks great. Never used Jameson but Hennessy works well.... For those who want a quick and easy shellac finish; simply buy a quart of Zinsser Amber Shellac at the hardware store and thin with denatured alcahol 1/1. Like most finishes apply thin coats. I’m like Luis and use a rag for large surfaces and a brush for tite areas but only use the brush to apply the shellac and the cloth to wipe access. This method works well because one can control the color. Just add more coats to get a darker tone.

As for a finish you can apply “all in the same day”- Generals High Performance Top Coat. Brush thin and leave alone. Drys for next coat in 15 minutes and I’m yet to have brush strokes.

I just finsihed a large project using this method and applied the top coat for durability. Doesnt get any easier and looks great.

Never used Jameson but Hennessy works well….

]]> By: Luis http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/shellac-attack.html#comment-493 Luis Tue, 02 Mar 2010 15:15:13 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/?p=2079#comment-493 Tom, From personal experience, shellac will go very well on to of boiled linseed oil and from what I read it can be successfully applied on top of every finish and even better, it can be applied between incompatible finishes. Say you want to finish a piece with water based varnish but first what to pop the grain with an oil. Acrylic varnish won't cure on top of an oil finish but if you apply a coat or two of shellac between the oil and the varnish then the shellac will seal the oil finish and the acrylic with cure on top of the shellac. Another use is when finishing exotics. Some species like cocobolo has a natural oil in it and some finishes won't cure properly on cocobolo. A sealer coat with shellac will solve the problem. I never go for a thick finish with shellac, I like a finish to have as thin as possible so I can feel the texture of the wood. Some may like it and some don't. To me, a glass smooth finish on top of a open grained wood like walnut looks fake. But with a thin shellac finish you can still see and feel the pores in the wood and all the wood grain texture. Some may look at it and think the finishing process isn't complete, but to me it looks very organic and the wood kind of asks you to touch it. With that said, my best results are with very diluted shellac, something about 1/2 pound cut. I mix it by eye and feel and I tend to use something that flows like Irish whiskey. Don't worry, I always think safety first and never mix shellac with Jameson... ;-) Tom,

From personal experience, shellac will go very well on to of boiled linseed oil and from what I read it can be successfully applied on top of every finish and even better, it can be applied between incompatible finishes.

Say you want to finish a piece with water based varnish but first what to pop the grain with an oil. Acrylic varnish won’t cure on top of an oil finish but if you apply a coat or two of shellac between the oil and the varnish then the shellac will seal the oil finish and the acrylic with cure on top of the shellac.

Another use is when finishing exotics. Some species like cocobolo has a natural oil in it and some finishes won’t cure properly on cocobolo. A sealer coat with shellac will solve the problem.

I never go for a thick finish with shellac, I like a finish to have as thin as possible so I can feel the texture of the wood. Some may like it and some don’t. To me, a glass smooth finish on top of a open grained wood like walnut looks fake. But with a thin shellac finish you can still see and feel the pores in the wood and all the wood grain texture.

Some may look at it and think the finishing process isn’t complete, but to me it looks very organic and the wood kind of asks you to touch it.

With that said, my best results are with very diluted shellac, something about 1/2 pound cut. I mix it by eye and feel and I tend to use something that flows like Irish whiskey.

Don’t worry, I always think safety first and never mix shellac with Jameson… ;-)

]]> By: Tom Fidgen http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/shellac-attack.html#comment-492 Tom Fidgen Tue, 02 Mar 2010 14:17:48 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/?p=2079#comment-492 Hey Bob, thanks man! Nice to get some solid feedback on using oil under shellac... Cheers Hey Bob,

thanks man! Nice to get some solid feedback on using oil under shellac…
Cheers

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