It’s Sunday afternoon and I spent the morning out in Pickering, Ontario at the Tools of the Trades Show. It’s a really nice gathering of vintage and antique tool dealers peddling their wares to wood geeks like me! I would have posted some info on the event sooner but I only found out about it myself this past week. Oh well, for those that missed it you can catch the Spring session in April.
I went there this morning with nothing in mind really, I don’t actually have a short list of tools I currently ‘need’ or even ‘want’(imagine that). Once there though I found many, many tools I would have loved to acquire but my wife would have shot me if I came home with a truck load of new-old tools!
Anyhow, I did make two small purchases- the first is a small little oil can; I wanted one of these for awhile now and this one fit the bill perfectly. I’ll use it to keep my Jojoba oil in. Jojoba oil is a natural, non-toxic oil product I use on my tools to keep rust at bay. It’s similar to the camellia oil you may find for sale at places like Lie Nielsen Toolworks. The main difference is it’s a little heavier but easily found off-the-shelf at health food stores while camellia oil is a little more rare(at least it seems to be in Toronto). The little oil can is copper or brass I believe and will live nicely above my work bench.
The second treasure I stumbled over is a beautiful example of a 1930’s Stanley No.22 Transitional Smoother. If you’re familiar with transitional planes you may have read reviews about the problems they seem to have with the rear totes moving and becoming loose while in use. One big plus about the No.22 is it doesn’t have a rear tote, so……no problem! For anyone that isn’t familiar with transitional planes they were wooden bodied planes that had a cast iron frame screwed into the body which was usually made from Beech. This perticular model has a kind of squat, mushroom shaped knob that’s a little beafier than the taller, slimmer styles found on Stanley’s metal planes. I like this ‘robust’ little front knob and find it fits my hand quite nicely.
Stanley claimed that “Every Carpenter needs two or more wood planes in his kit, for rough outside work” and the transitional plane was the answer for it. For a wooden bodied smoother, I really like the feel of this model and the fact that it doesn’t have the rear tote adds to the comfort while in use. This model was also the first with a lateral adjuster. If you’d like some more information about transitional planes or any other Stanley hand planes for that matter, check out Patrick Leach’s web site. It’s an incredible resource of information.
This one is in beautiful shape with the original chip breaker and iron, a near-perfect condition lever cap and very-very few marks on the sole. Having the original chip breaker and iron with the added bonus of the Sweetheart logo still clearly visible was a nice touch indeed but that said, I’ll rip them out of it as soon as I can and replace them with new ones from Ron Hock! What can I say I’m a worker, not a collector!
So these were my finds, small treasures on a nice Sunday morning surrounded by vintage tools and friendly people. If you were there you know what I’m talking about, if you missed it then maybe you can make the next one in April.
Cheers!

5 Comments
I purchases one similar off of eBay a few months back. Although the soul on mine wasn’t that great of condition.
If you have any ideas on resurfacing the soul I’d very much love to hear it.
Handi
Handi,
thanks for the comment.
If the entire sole is bad you may consider replacing it- this isn’t an easy job but I’ve seen it done before. You basically need to plane off the exsisting sole and replace it with a new strip of wood. The mouth on my transitional smoother is a little larger tahn I’d like so I’ve decided to chop out an area in front of the mouth and add a new hardwood plate. When I tackle it I’ll post an article on the process. It’s on my list!
keep well.
Tom
Tom,
Thanks for the information.
if you have an email address i can get ahold of you at i’ll send you a picture or two and let you take a gander at it and tell me what you think.
Handi
Hi Tom,
Little late maybe (just found your site), but why not first give the original SW blade a shot? (I have Hocks, but they usually cost more than the Plane – so a number of mine still have the original blades). If you are taking light cuts as a smoother, may work just fine.
And a number of these SW blades from that period are actually laminated – a higher carbon steel on the edge side – lower carbon but tougher on the back. After regrinding the main 25-degree bevel, look across it, and if you see a gray line – metal darker on one side, lighter on the other – you have one of Stanley’s laminated ‘composite’ blades.. Their ‘best’ supposedly..
Let us know?
Chris
Hey Chris,
thanks for the comment and the great info on how to detect if the iron is made up of laminated steel. I’d probably use an original iron if I had one in decent shape- most are too thin for my taste and I’ve found they’ll only hold a decent edge for 20 minutes of work at best- then it’s back to the sharpening bench…modern irons like the Hock or LN or Veritas keep an edge almost twice as long as the older ones I have. That said, some of my old planes still have original irons and the transitional is still one of them. Turned out the Hock iron I was planing on using wouldn’t seat into the blade adjustment peg on this model plane. I kept the original iron and sharpened it up a few times now. I don’t use it very often due to the wide mouth but still plan on giving it an over-haul one day.
keep well and thanks again for the tip.