Comments on: Tools of the Trades http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/tools-of-the-trades.html Fri, 03 Feb 2012 01:50:30 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 By: Tom Fidgen http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/tools-of-the-trades.html#comment-265 Tom Fidgen Sat, 06 Mar 2010 14:51:50 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/tools-of-the-trades.html#comment-265 Hey Chris, thanks for the comment and the great info on how to detect if the iron is made up of laminated steel. I'd probably use an original iron if I had one in decent shape- most are too thin for my taste and I've found they'll only hold a decent edge for 20 minutes of work at best- then it's back to the sharpening bench...modern irons like the Hock or LN or Veritas keep an edge almost twice as long as the older ones I have. That said, some of my old planes still have original irons and the transitional is still one of them. Turned out the Hock iron I was planing on using wouldn't seat into the blade adjustment peg on this model plane. I kept the original iron and sharpened it up a few times now. I don't use it very often due to the wide mouth but still plan on giving it an over-haul one day. keep well and thanks again for the tip. Hey Chris,

thanks for the comment and the great info on how to detect if the iron is made up of laminated steel. I’d probably use an original iron if I had one in decent shape- most are too thin for my taste and I’ve found they’ll only hold a decent edge for 20 minutes of work at best- then it’s back to the sharpening bench…modern irons like the Hock or LN or Veritas keep an edge almost twice as long as the older ones I have. That said, some of my old planes still have original irons and the transitional is still one of them. Turned out the Hock iron I was planing on using wouldn’t seat into the blade adjustment peg on this model plane. I kept the original iron and sharpened it up a few times now. I don’t use it very often due to the wide mouth but still plan on giving it an over-haul one day.
keep well and thanks again for the tip.

]]> By: Chris Hudson http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/tools-of-the-trades.html#comment-264 Chris Hudson Sat, 06 Mar 2010 07:36:01 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/tools-of-the-trades.html#comment-264 Hi Tom, Little late maybe (just found your site), but why not first give the original SW blade a shot? (I have Hocks, but they usually cost more than the Plane - so a number of mine still have the original blades). If you are taking light cuts as a smoother, may work just fine. And a number of these SW blades from that period are actually laminated - a higher carbon steel on the edge side - lower carbon but tougher on the back. After regrinding the main 25-degree bevel, look across it, and if you see a gray line - metal darker on one side, lighter on the other - you have one of Stanley's laminated 'composite' blades.. Their 'best' supposedly.. Let us know? Chris Hi Tom,

Little late maybe (just found your site), but why not first give the original SW blade a shot? (I have Hocks, but they usually cost more than the Plane – so a number of mine still have the original blades). If you are taking light cuts as a smoother, may work just fine.

And a number of these SW blades from that period are actually laminated – a higher carbon steel on the edge side – lower carbon but tougher on the back. After regrinding the main 25-degree bevel, look across it, and if you see a gray line – metal darker on one side, lighter on the other – you have one of Stanley’s laminated ‘composite’ blades.. Their ‘best’ supposedly..

Let us know?

Chris

]]> By: Handi http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/tools-of-the-trades.html#comment-263 Handi Wed, 03 Feb 2010 01:30:03 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/tools-of-the-trades.html#comment-263 Tom, Thanks for the information. if you have an email address i can get ahold of you at i'll send you a picture or two and let you take a gander at it and tell me what you think. Handi Tom,

Thanks for the information.

if you have an email address i can get ahold of you at i’ll send you a picture or two and let you take a gander at it and tell me what you think.

Handi

]]> By: Tom Fidgen http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/tools-of-the-trades.html#comment-262 Tom Fidgen Sun, 24 Jan 2010 02:36:21 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/tools-of-the-trades.html#comment-262 Handi, thanks for the comment. If the entire sole is bad you may consider replacing it- this isn't an easy job but I've seen it done before. You basically need to plane off the exsisting sole and replace it with a new strip of wood. The mouth on my transitional smoother is a little larger tahn I'd like so I've decided to chop out an area in front of the mouth and add a new hardwood plate. When I tackle it I'll post an article on the process. It's on my list! keep well. Tom Handi,
thanks for the comment.
If the entire sole is bad you may consider replacing it- this isn’t an easy job but I’ve seen it done before. You basically need to plane off the exsisting sole and replace it with a new strip of wood. The mouth on my transitional smoother is a little larger tahn I’d like so I’ve decided to chop out an area in front of the mouth and add a new hardwood plate. When I tackle it I’ll post an article on the process. It’s on my list!
keep well.
Tom

]]> By: Handi http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/tools-of-the-trades.html#comment-261 Handi Sun, 24 Jan 2010 00:14:03 +0000 http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/tools-of-the-trades.html#comment-261 I purchases one similar off of eBay a few months back. Although the soul on mine wasn't that great of condition. If you have any ideas on resurfacing the soul I'd very much love to hear it. Handi I purchases one similar off of eBay a few months back. Although the soul on mine wasn’t that great of condition.

If you have any ideas on resurfacing the soul I’d very much love to hear it.

Handi

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