I used to worry about cutting dovetails.
Especially when they were really important, and really noticeable, I’d sometimes get a knot in my stomach.
I suppose that was due to lack of confidence, and/or a lack of skill.
Probably a bit of both!
In the last video post, the Architect’s Table part ten, the cross supports were dovetailed into the side supports.
Are you like I was, and allow yourself to get worked up at the thought of cutting dovetails?
The good news is, I have a couple of tips that should help you.
Half blind dovetails in table supports.
TIPS
So, the first tip?
Practice.
I know-
it sounds obvious doesn’t it?
You’d be surprised at how many people don’t practice sawing dovetails. ( or any other joint for that matter )
They’ll wait until they’re well into a project, and then jump into an area where the dovetails really matter.
Maybe they’re structural, so they’ll need to be properly executed, but don’t have to look all that good.
Or, maybe they’re visual, and they’ll be a prominent feature in the design.
This brings me to my second tip-
knowing when they matter.
The Architect’s Table only has four dovetails. So, I made them count.
No, you’ll never see them once the table top is attached, but they’re structural and will have some stress on them.
Make sure you don’t make them too deep or you may weaken the supports and stays.
If this was the valet project, and knowing that it only has one drawer-
and knowing that you’ll see the dovetails every time you open that one drawer-
and still knowing that the style of that piece screams for people to take a closer look at them…
in that case, try to make them look as good as you can.
They’re not only structural, they’re a design feature.
Remember that.
What about my Cabinetmaker’s Toolchest?
Do they have to look good?
Not at all-
I always tell my students-
[inlinetweet prefix=”” tweeter=”” suffix=””] ‘Even an ugly dovetail is a strong dovetail.’ [/inlinetweet]
It’s a tool chest-
they should be strong, but they don’t have to be pretty.
IN CLOSING
Always consider where the dovetail is going.
Is it a structural component that will never be seen or, is it more of a decorative joint?
In a perfect world, it wouldn’t matter, they’d always be perfectly executed.
But, until then-
practice sawing and always consider where they’re going.
That knot in your stomach will let go and before too long, you won’t worry so much about cutting dovetails.
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Do you practice cutting joinery before you get into a project?
Does the thought of cutting a dovetail stress you out?
I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Join the conversation and leave me a comment below.
Cheers!
Hello everyone. As I am new to woodworking, I always suggest making a new project with a new joint. That forces me to practice before if I do not want to have any surprises. It is a good habit.
Thanks Tom.
Good write up as usual Tom! These little bit of wisdom are really good to remind us that it is not worth it to “sweat the small stuff, and it is all small stuff ” in the end. It really help take the pressure off!
Last summer I was working on a timber frame house, and we couldn’t waste wood, we basically had just the right numbers of pieces… So mistake were not an option… It was my first time cutting dove teals with a skill saw, so I was a bit nervous, so I set up a piece of waste from an other purlin, and made a test cut… It made al the difference in the world, and increased my confidence and w made me aware of what could go wrong… Also We did a lot of cut with a “skill saw” that have a 16+ inches blade, so it is quite intimidating the first time you get to use it, so a few test cut is a must!!
Cheers
David
Well so much for practice. Second joint in on the end of the lower back piece I starting chopping out the tails. But that’s a tail board Dave so shouldn’t you be chopping out the pins like the other end of the board?? This in spite of clearly, but somewhat faintly, marking x’s in the pins.
Fortunately I had a spare piece (and this wasn’t the front board) so I was able to quickly mill it up to start again. I read somewhere recently that you should go into a project expecting and willing to replace at least one piece due to a mistake. Let’s hope this is my one.
Cheers, Dave
Dave K.- good to hear you had a spare piece!
David G. – 16-in. skill saw….sounds terrifying! LOL-
actually, my friend Mike in Cape Breton had a mammoth circular saw when he was working on his timber frame.
I guess it’s the tool for the job when you’re working to those dimensions.
thanks again for the comments guys!
For me, creating dovetails that look as good as you see in books is the most difficult operation. I’ve read a lot about them and have cut quite a few, but I have a long way to go before I can do it well with any consistency. I’ll be cutting some today for the small drawer on the tea cabinet in your first book. So far what I’ve done looks okay. It is amazing how they can be cleaned up, so I will be pleased with the cabinet when done. But I have a long way to go and it looks like it will just take time. You don’t hear a lot of experts talk much about the time it takes to master it. I’ve seen many videos and such showing the methods, but the reality is different and I’d like to hear how long it took some of these people to be able to execute to the level they are demonstrating (and not on forgiving woods). For some reason the focus seems to be more on the destination than the journey. I’d like to hear more about the journey, since that is where I spend most of my time.
Thanks for giving this some attention.
Robin,
thanks for the comments.
I’d love to see some pics of the finished piece when you get it finished.
Best of luck-
Tom
As a beginner I’ve been doing practice projects of functional pieces that incorporate the same kinds of joints I want to use in higher quality items. For example: saw horses (draw bored M&Ts), a tool chest (dados, dovetails), a tool tote (dovetails, dados). This way I get both practice and functional appliances for my efforts.
Dan,
thanks for the comments. You make a great point.
I often tell my students that workshop ‘furniture’ is the best place to start.
If things don’t go as planned, or, techniques fall short in some way, you don’t have to sweat it.
It’s only workshop furniture.
Better to practice skills there than on the new dining room set!
Just cut a practice dovetail as I get ready to do the carcase of the cabinet maker’s toolchest. It was a thing of ugly – still served a purpose as it showed me where things needed to be adjusted. I have done a few things in pine with dovetails but this will be the first in hardwood (maple). Little bit of stressing but knowing that it is for me and is a shop piece helps somewhat. Shooting for perfection but will not have a problem if they fall short.
Cheers, Dave
Thanks Dave-
really looking forward to seeing those dovetails on your toolchest project.
( no pressure!-; )
cheers!
Fine woodworking did an article awhile back, I think Gary Rogowski wrote it, about a “five minute dovetail”. Just a single dovetail, laid out and cut quick in some scrap stock for practice (and to get your head in the right place when in the shop). I did these a lot at first. It really helped me to get more comfortable with them and not be so afraid to use them when “it matters”. Once the intimidation factor passes they’re really a lot of fun. Learning to lay them out with dividers was a game changer too.
Ryan,
thanks for the comments. I remember watching that video Gary did at FWW a few back; it made sense then and it still makes sense now. I never really liked the phrase, ‘practice makes perfect‘ I think we should think of it as ‘practice makes better‘.
Great point about the dividers- for sure they were one of those ‘a-ha’ moments.
all the best,
Tom