Add to Watch Later
Dry fit…
Hi folks!
Continuing along with the Group Project, in this episode I’m going to show you how to ‘stretch’ wood. Not literally, but stretching it in a way to make a narrow board work for a wider application. I’ve mentioned this is the past few episodes, and excited to share this technique with you.
Here’s a few images to show the general process-
To begin, I dimension the stock square and rip a strip off of the front.
Step one.
Next, the larger back part of the off-cut is re-sawn and the two halves are flattened and squared.
Step two.
Finally, the parts are jointed, book matched and glued to a secondary wood, in this case, poplar.
Step three.
You’ll see the entire process in this, our 150th !!?? episode-; )
enjoy~
I have a fear of resawing, and maybe its the size that is my biggest fear. This was nice to watch in real time. The scale of this project feels approachable, and gets me one step closer to making the kerfing plane. I have been watching your videos for quite some time! And I noticed your “go-to” jack plane seems to be the low angle one. I just got one in the mail, and love it! The added advantage of just changing out blades with different angles, is really up my small shop alley. Thanks and have a great trip in Australia!
Thanks so much for that video Tom. I have to admit that is something I have never considered before, stretching wood. Definitely learned something valuable today. Unfortunately here in Costa Rica they don’t use secondary wood here, or even different types of wood for one project. The wood is beautiful but at times it can be a bit boring using the same thing over and over again, even if it is Guanacaste. Loved your use of one plane with different blades. I can’t bring to many of my tools back with me when I head to the states in May so I am considering buy a few to make a basic tool kit. One of the thoughts was what plane or planes to pick up. I think the concept of on plane with many blades really lends to someone looking for multiple tools but minimal space and funds. Keep up the good work my friend.
An enjoyable episode that made me think a bit about gluing.
For this application, with no structural demand, does toothing the wood before glue-up have much effect? I would have thought that the planed surfaces would soak up glue & provide a really strong bond. (Ii am not challenging the technique – trying to learn & understand more of the hows & whys)
I have heard that it is a good idea to apply veneer to both sides of a board to reduce cupping as the veneer & glue shrink. This isn’t veneer here, but it makes me wonder where the line might be between face-gluing two boards and applying veneer. 1/8″? 1/16″? Not to worry, since veneering once side doesn’t cause cupping…?
As always, I appreciate your insights.
As I understand it, and i’ve seen this in practice, the finely planed surface doesn’t leave much for the glue to grab hold of but a rough surface, sanded or toothed has more to get a hold of. A clean surface on a tight grained hardwood like cherry is like glass. The glue can’t soak in because it doesn’t have access to the grain. If it were something like Mahogany or Oak, the open grain of the wood gives the glue something to lock into.
Tom will have to give you his insight but here’s what I see. He’s clamped the surfaces together so it won’t have the chance to cup before the glue cures.. In veneer you don’t have the ability to clamp layers together and the glue has to tack up and hold that layer, if you don’t equalize the two sides it will cup and separate before the glue cures.
I appreciate you showing the technique of jointing both boards at the same time, rather than trying to get each board perfect on it’s own. Jointing the two at the same time is almost fool proof and few people actually teach that.
Thanks James!