In the last video post, The Kerfing Plane Part One, you’ll see it began with this statement:
“Make a full size template and rough out some 4/4 hardwood for the plane body”
I’m pretty sure that my book also says to use 4/4 hardwood.
So, what if you have a nice piece of 5/4 sitting on the wood rack for the past few years?
Use it !
Should you start by flattening one face and then scribe the thickness down to 4/4?
Make it S6S ( square on six sides ) then cut the rabbet for the saw plate. (the specs are in my book )
Drill the saw nut holes and start shaping.
This is true for all of my projects and I try to get this point across to all of my readers and viewers.
If you have other wood species or other thickness’ of stock then use them.
I rarely measure exact board thickness.
I’ll take it off the wood rack, have a quick glance at the rough thickness, and then dimension it square to itself.
If it starts out as 4/4, it may very end up at 15/16-in. or even 3/4 if it’s a difficult piece to flatten.
Whatever it ends up at, is usually OK by me.
There are certain times when a design calls for a specific thickness and in those cases yes,
[inlinetweet prefix=”” tweeter=”” suffix=””]Put the ruler to the plank[/inlinetweet]. ( Tweet that )
But otherwise, this is a hand tool project, use what you have and don’t worry too much about thickness’.
Shape the piece so it feels good in your hands- that’s the point!
Could you use thinner stock if you have smaller hands?
One of my earlier prototypes was a 3/4-in. walnut and oak plane.
It worked really well.
It felt a tad thin for my hands but it still does the job.
Here’s a trick-
pick up your favorite, and most comfortable saw and hold it in your hand.
Measure the thickness of the tote and make your kerfing plane match-
you could go a step further and shape the tote to match as well.
My kerfing planes look a lot like one of my favorite backsaws~; )
Can guess what that is ?