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Become a MemberDecember 19, 2012
After the bent laminations are cut to length and smoothed, the rails are made up from solid poplar. The parts are dimensioned and the joinery begins.
I decided to use twin tenons on the corners for some extra strength and glue surface. The parts are laid out and the tenons are sawn first. I use a fret-saw to remove the waste between the tenons and a chisel cleans up the shoulders.
The mating mortises are marked and I remove the bulk of the waste with a brace and bit. A little chisel work and the seat frame is dry fit.
Here are some links to a few of the products used in this video:
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Beautiful illustration of your process. Thanks for sharing!
Am I right in assuming your using the same saw for both cross and rip cuts when doing your joinery? Is it sash filed? Or do you feel a cross-cut backsaw is simply efficient in such short cuts in poplar? Thanks again.
Thanks Manni-
those are actually two saws I’m using. A crosscut and rip. You could indeed use one saw to do the job, especially if it was one of Bad Axes ‘hybrid’ tooth geometry. But in this case it was two-;)
thanks for the comments and question!
Keep them coming Tom, great video progression of you talented hands!!
cheers
David
Hi Tom,
Your projects are always interesting! I have a few of questions for you:
What’s the title of your new book and when does it come out?
I know you’re sponsored by veritas now but… how do you like the PMV11 chisels?
What material did you use for the bending templates? MDF? how did you shape it?
Thanks and keep up the good work!
JJ-
thanks for the questions and comments. My new book is simply titled ‘The Unplugged Woodshop’ and it’ll be released in September through The Taunton Press.
As for the Veritas chisels, they aren’t the new PMV11’s, but I like them very much. I have a PMV11 plane iron that I REALLY like and would strongly recommend that tool steel.
You can see a post about the new chisels here and another on the PMV11 tool steel here.
as for the templates, they’re made of pine. Check back a few posts and you’ll find video’s and information about how I made them!
all the best.
Glad to have you back on your blog more frequently giving us insight in your projects Tom!
I see you’re using a bevel up jack nowadays instead of the bevel down 51/2 you used to. Could you give some feedback when comparing them?
It’ll be interesting to watch the woven seat coming attached to the frame. Do you think ‘seatload’ will do something to the relatively soft poplar over time?
Thanks for sharing, I love the vid’s
Andre- thanks for the comments and question. I’ve been using the bevel up plane for about three years now and really like it. It’s simple, well balanced and has become my work horse here in the shop. I still really like my 5 1/2 but one of my best friends in Cape Breton wanted to get into hand tools so I gave him my Lie Nielsen 5 1/2 and No. 4 in bronze. I figure they’d be a good place to get him started! They’re all top of the line hand tools and I can’t say one is any better than the other. I like the bevel up ‘feel’ a little more these days and the fact that I can interchange the irons with my old Veritas bevel-up Jointer all the better.
As for the poplar, I’m not sure if I’ll see any extensive wear over time due to it’s softness. I may, but then I’ll fix it if anything happens…. I don’t expect that would happen for a few decades in which case I’ll be very old and much more grey~; )
How do you keep the back side of the end grain from blowing out when you block plane the ends of the pieces?
Chris,
thanks for the comments and good question.
The first step is a sharp plane iron!
From there it’s a careful technique which lifts the plane as you exit the opposite side of the work.A small bevel on the far side helps to prevent blowing-out the opposite side as well. Practice first and you’ll get a feel for it.
good luck!
Tom